As the joyous festivities of Christmas light up the world, a fascinating connection emerges between Christendom and a unique form of Maa Kali, worshipped under the pseudonym Sara-la-Kali. Beneath her layers of white robes lies a history steeped in matriarchal reverence, oppression, and resilience. This tale spans continents and centuries, revealing the enduring spirit of Mother Kali in the heart of Europe.
Origins: From India to Persia
Around fifteen hundred years ago, during the reign of Bahram of the Sassanid dynasty in Persia, a group of Indians arrived as prisoners of war. Among them were devotees of Maa Kali, likely including ancient Bengalis who practiced matri-puja (mother worship). Their life in Persia was one of suffering and starvation. Yet, amidst these hardships, their devotion to Kali persisted. After the Persian emperor’s death, this group, now marginalized within the country, embarked on a nomadic existence. Over time, they came to be known as the Romani people—a community that carried their traditions, language, and spiritual practices as they moved across the world.
Journey to Europe: A Veiled Tradition
By the 9th century, the Romani people traversed through Egypt and arrived in Europe, settling in regions such as France, Romania, and Bulgaria. However, Europe’s radical Christianity regarded idolatry, particularly the worship of female deities, as a form of Satanism. The punishment for such heresy was brutal and often fatal. To protect their traditions, the Romani people disguised their worship of Kali. The Digambari form of their Ishta Devi (goddess) was veiled under the white robes of a Christian nun, and her narrative was woven into the legend of Sara, a black woman said to be a companion of Mary Magdalene.
Thus, the Romani’s devotion to Kali survived under the guise of Sara-la-Kali. While mainstream Christianity did not recognize her as a saint, she gained a revered place among the Romani as their patron mother. This blend of cultures preserved the essence of matriarchal worship even in an oppressive and alien cultural landscape.
The Pilgrimage to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Today, Sara-la-Kali is worshipped in churches across Romani-dominated regions of Europe. Her primary pilgrimage site is the Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer church in southern France. Every year, on the 24th and 25th of May, thousands gather to celebrate her. The highlight of the festivities is the ceremonial bathing of Sara-la-Kali’s statue in the sea, commemorating her arrival on French shores. After the ritual bath, the statue is returned to its altar, which is adorned with candles and flowers offered by devotees.
This ritual bears striking parallels to Indian traditions such as the bathing of Navapatrika during Durga Puja, the Mahasnan (great bath) of deities, and the immersion of idols during Vijaya Dashami. Even on European soil, these echoes of ancient Indian customs preserve the memory of a lost heritage.
The Legacy of Marginalization
Despite her veneration, Sara-la-Kali remains marginalized in mainstream Christianity. Much like how Mother Tara was initially considered only a Bodhisattva in early Buddhism or how Usha in Vedic lore was subjected to patriarchal narratives, Sara-la-Kali’s recognition is confined to the peripheries of European religious culture. Her association with the Romani people, who themselves have faced centuries of discrimination and social exclusion, underscores this marginalization. The Romani, often labeled as untouchables of European society, have borne the brunt of prejudice, much of which stems from their steadfast preservation of matriarchal and non-Christian traditions.
A Symbol of Resilience
The story of Sara-la-Kali is one of resilience and adaptation. It speaks of a community’s unwavering commitment to its spiritual roots, even in the face of relentless oppression. Her worship reflects the enduring power of matriarchal culture to survive and thrive under veils and pseudonyms, transcending geographical and cultural boundaries.
In Sara-la-Kali’s story, we see a parallel to other matriarchal traditions that have navigated the tides of history, often reinterpreted or suppressed but never truly erased. As candles flicker in her honor each May, they illuminate not just her altar but also the profound legacy of Mother Kali’s spirit, carried across continents by those who refused to let her light be extinguished.
